Tuesday, October 29, 2013

huh? American kids drank beer? Made from roots?

Nannari syrup with soda makes for great root beer

Vikram Doctor, ET Bureau Aug 3, 2012, 12.15AM IST
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    Reading American comics like Archie and Dennis the Menace as a kid required an ability to isolate items that seemed to make no sense. These American kids played cricket with a thick stick — OK, whatever.?!

    And they ate peanut butter with jelly — how did they get the quivering dessert which was what I knew as jelly to stick onto a slice of bread, and did the peanut butter really help? But, fine, it was their taste.

     And they washed this down with root beer — huh?! American kids drank beer? Made from roots?
    I finally got to try it when I visited the US and it was a surprise. I had learned by then that, sadly, commercially made root beer no longer contained alcohol, but this dark fizzy liquid looked like a cola. It was, in fact, one of a number of drinks first concocted in 19th century USA for medicinal purposes, which, with the addition of soda water and much sugar, found even more popularity under names like Coca Cola (which originally contained cocaine and cola nut extract) 

    and Pepsi Cola (meant, as the name indicates, to help with dyspepsia).

    Root beer was based on two very different plants which shared a similar herby sweetness — the sassafras tree and the sarsaparilla creeper. Both were used by Native Americans as medicinal herbs, and were enthusiastically taken up by Europeans who presumably felt that something so strong tasting must have benefits. They were both used as medicines in their own right, and to flavour other, more bitter tasting medicines, which is probably why they became less popular over time.

    When the association of a taste is with something strongly medicinal, you're likely to take against it (Coke and Pepsi avoided sarsaparilla flavours for more citrusy ones, which is why they don't seem medicinal). India too has sarsaparilla flavours in its herbarium. There are again two herbs with similar tastes and both were known to ayurveda before the British discovered them and, confusingly, named them both Indian sarsaparilla for their similarity to the American herb.

    One is a forest creeper called Crytolepis buchanani, but the more common one is Hemidesmus indicus, a shrub with slender leaves that grows across much of India, and which is known by names like anantamulor nannari. Dominik Wujastyk's The Roots of Ayurveda, a selection of famous ayurvedic texts, lists both types of Indian sarsaparilla as being the ingredients used at the start of making a preparation known as the Great Good Luck Ghee.

    As seems to be common to such traditional medicines, these herbs are credited with a bewildering range of benefits. One text I found online described Indian sarsaparilla as being "aphrodisiac, antipyretic, alexiteric, antidiarrhoeal, astringent..." and that's only the As. I am no expert on the validity of any of this (though I didn't notice anything in particular relating to the first term), but the one thing I can say for sure is that Indian sarsaparilla also tastes pretty good.

    In fact, it tastes rather better than American sarsaparilla, which has a certain bitter intensity that presumably American kids have got used to while drinking root beer, but which can come as a surprise to first time tasters. Indian sarsaparilla (meaning Hemidesmus indicus) takes the basic herby sweetness of sarsaparilla, but eliminates the bitter notes and adds on a wonderful aroma, part woody, part vanilla. When you try it you first get the intense herbal taste, but after a couple of seconds a secondary aroma unfurls across your palate and up your nose.
    It is like smelling vanilla cookies, rum cakes and gingerbread being baked in an old bakery with a wood burning stove. There is a parallel here with the class of perfumes known as gourmand aromas for their spicysweet food smells, of which Thierry Mugler's Angel is the best known. They are fiercely polarising perfumes with some people adoring them and other people unable to understand why anyone would want to smell like a bakery. If you're in the first category, then Indian sarsaparilla is for you.
    As an ayurvedic herb Indian sarsaparilla is known across the country, but as a beverage, known as nannari syrup, it only seems to be popular in South India. Even here it is something of a vanishing taste, with people remembering it from their childhood, but rarely having tried it recently.
    It does take getting used to -the woody note, in particular, is almost too weird, but it is also intriguing, so you keep trying it again and again to figure out if you really like it, and before you know it you are hooked. Nannari syrup is one of those things which you aren't entirely sure you like, and then before you know it you've finished most of the bottle.

     To find it you have to go to places like Matunga in Mumbai where South Indian stores stock items you will get nowhere else in the city. (In Chennai itself I couldn't it find it in most regular stores, until I went to Triplicane in the old part of the city). A few stores may stock the syrup, but if you want the roots you will have to go to Kannara Stores, a shop that has a distinctly witchy air, with its boxes of dried roots, berries and barks. The syrup is easiest to use, but I find is often made too sweet, so it's not a bad idea to buy some roots and try making a more balanced syrup yourself.
    Nannari syrup is great to drink when it's hot, since its woody notes are cooling. If you add it to soda you have root beer better than any American kind, and I've also made a great cocktail by adding a shot to sparkling white wine. But I also find it is good to drink warm — brewing the roots into tea or adding the syrup to warm milk. The warm, spicy vanilla smells are wonderfully soothing, good to drink when even a monsoon as meagre as this one leaves its full complement of colds and chills. Perhaps all those multiple health claims for Indian sarsaparilla might be true, and this is the one medicine that is really as good to drink as it is good for you.


    Indian Sarsaparilla (Hemidesmus indicus)

    The plant Indian Sarsaparilla is grown for it's root. The extract taken from the roots are the natural coolant and has a lot of medicinal qualities.

    This medicinal plant is native to South Asia. The plant is a slender, laticiferous, twining shrub. The leaves are opposite, short-petioled, elliptic-oblong to linear-lanceolate. The roots are woody and aromatic. The inner part of the roots are white in color and the outer part is brown in color. The root has a pleasant odour with astringent taste.

    Indian Sarsaparilla roots are mainly used to make beverages. An extract is prepared from its roots by means of steam distillation. It is then mixed with sugar or (palm sugar), water and citric acid proportionately to evolve a concentrate drink. Sugar is added, since to remove the astringent taste from it. These mixture acts as diaphoretic and also used as demulcent to relieve body pain. It keeps the body cool. Besides, Indian Sarsaparilla root is diuretic, as it tones up the urinary system and helps in preventing stone formation. It also controls tonsillitis.

    It is also a component of several medicinal preparations in Ayurveda and administered in the form of powder, infusion or decoction as syrup.

    local name: nannari
    [image: the roots of Indian Sarsaparilla plant]







    Wednesday, October 23, 2013

    Swiss chocolates now made in Surat

    SURAT: Move over the sugary gharis and ghevars! Surat will start dishing out Swiss chocolates too.


    City-based Rajhans (Desai Jain) Group is setting up a Rs 500 crore chocolate factory in Kim on Mumbai-Ahmedabad highway. The Rs 2,000 crore real estate group has diversified into confectionery business by tying up with a leading chocolate maker from Switzerland to manufacture nearly 25 tonnes of chocolate bars and moulds.

    To be sold under the brand name Schmitten and Hoppits, the chocolates will be available in the market by January. Schmitten will be in moulds and Hoppits which will be sold as bars. The group is setting up the factory sprawling on 1.5 lakh sq ft land.

    The machinery and operating technology is imported from the UK, Denmark, Germany and Switzerland. The factory is the first of its kind in Gujarat and touted to be the third biggest in the country after Cadbury’s and Nestle’s .

    "The Swiss chocolate maker with whom we have tied up is number one in Switzerland ," said Jayesh Desai, chairman of the group. Desai said the chocolates will be premium brands.

    The Indian chocolate market is valued at around Rs 4,500 crore is likely to touch Rs 7,500 crore by 2015, according to Assocham. Cadbury commands the highest 70% share. Rajhans Group has also hired two top executives from Cadbury.

    Shubhra Kallani, marketing head of Rajhans Nutriments, said, "We will launch our products in eight states including Gujarat, Maharashtra, Tamil Nadu, Punjab, Rajasthan , Karnataka, Delhi and West Bengal."

    "Compared to other chocolates selling in the market, these will be costlier as it will be apremium product," she added. The plant in itself will be a tourist spot for those wanting to see how chocolates are made.

    Wednesday, September 18, 2013

    Sprouted Seeds: "Forgotten Food,"
    enhances immune system and rejuvenation
    By Sol Azulay
    Five thousand years ago Chinese nobles ate sprouted seeds for rejuvenation and healing. Today, research seems to be confirming that sprouts are the food of the future, as well as a food of the past.
    During WWII, when the United States was concerned about a possible meat shortage, the scientific community advised the government that the consumption of germinated seeds was the best and the cheapest alternative to proteins in meat. Today, the increasing tendency to avoid eating meat means that sprouts are taking a serious place in modern culinary approach.
    The value of sprouts is becoming more and more accepted among many in the scientific community today. Sprouts are found to be a complete protein. Untampered natural sprouts assist in the building of nerves, tissue, bones and blood.
    Dr. Ann Wigmore, founder of the Ann Wigmore Foundation in Torreon, New Mexico, has dedicated her life to confirming the healing properties of sprouts. For the past 30 years, the foundation and four related institutes have treated people for different disorders. Sprouts were found to contribute extensively to the immune system, and were shown to be excellent detoxificants.
    Studies at Washington University have shown that a shortage of metabolic enzymes can jeopardize our health. Apparently, if we get digestive enzymes from our food, more metabolic enzyme is freed to prevent disease and maintain health. Unfortunately, all processed food has been heated by one of more means, and thus, all natural enzymes have been destroyed. It seems that eating raw foods is the answer.
    The work of researchers such as Dr. Edward Howell, author of the book "Enzyme Nutrition," has shown that we literally wear out our enzyme making machinery by forcing our bodies to produce such a concentrated flow of digestive enzymes all of our lives. By squandering our enzyme making capacity on digestive enzymes, our body has less capacity to create and preserve the thousands of other enzymes in other systems in our body. As a consequence, enzyme activity throughout the entire body declines rapidly and the aging process accelerates at a much faster rate than it should.
    Research, such as that done by the Wigmore Foundation, has shown that there are 10 to 100 times more enzymes in sprouted seeds than in vegetables or fruits, depending on the enzyme and the seed being sprouted. Sprouted seeds are also a great source of vitamin C, carotenoid A, B vitamins, and minerals.
    There are a variety of sprouted seeds which can be added to one's diet. Some of the most nutritious are rye, fenugreek, wheat, mung bean, lentils, and alfalfa. The increase of vitamins in sprouts is tremendous during the sprouting period, compared to the unsprouted seed. Studies from India and Asia show increases in carotene and vitamin A, Dr. C.W. Bailey of the University of Minnesota showed, in a study attempting to establish the importance of enzymes in the human body, that vitamin C value increased by 600 percent in sprouted wheatgrass.
    All that's needed is a container of clean water and seeds from your local health food store to get a fully grown, crispy, tasty vegetable. In addition, there are some automatic sprouters available for individuals who do not have the time to soak and rinse their sprouts a few times a day. Adding sprouts to your favorite salads, soups, sandwiches, etc., will make a world of difference to your health. I believe that a few cups of sprouts daily as a supplement to your food can make a world of difference to your health.
    Sol Azulay is researcher of sprout cultivating products from Albuquerque, New Mexico. He is also the president of Season Grain Technologies.

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    Sunday, September 8, 2013


    Cash-starved outlets spice up recipes with desi masala


    NEW DELHI: Exotic meats and vegetables were the flavour of the city till just a couple of years ago. While gourmet eateries stocked foreign fare as a rule, even popular city restaurants started dishing out Norwegian salmon tikka, New Zealand lamb chops and Italian cured ham sausages, along with imported asparagus, basil, eggplant and zucchini. The hike in petroleum prices, coupled with the plummeting value of rupee against dollar, however, has pushed up food prices, and restaurateurs are looking at local farm produce and equipment to stay afloat. Salmon and basa have been replaced by trout, while Indian goat meat has supplanted exotic lamb variety and local herbs are serving as a spicy alternative to imported ingredients.

    Such innovations assume significance in light of the shooting prices of raw materials. Chef Sabyasachi Gorai of Olive says earlier the focus was on tasty preparations using Parma or Spanish ham, imported cheese and exotic organic herbs, but now chefs are rustling up imaginative recipes from locally sourced chicken, lamb or ham and cheese. "Only ingredients without a substitute are being imported," he observes. An upshot of this is the edging out of ingredient-based cuisine in the city by multi-cuisine with a similar taste.

    As new joints have to import kitchen equipment to compete with established eateries, the cost of setting up a restaurant has also gone up considerably even as expensive ingredients have dented profits. Restauranteur Sohrab Sitaram feel the double whammy has hit culinary business in the city. "High dollar value makes imports dearer, while rising petrol prices bring up transportation costs," he says. Sohrab observes that he could have set up a fine dining outlet with imported lighting, seating, kitchen equipment and a menu boasting gourmet fare at a price that would afford him only a budget eatery today.

    A restauranteur confessed that to beat this rise, one had to look at superior local ingredients. "With such a stiff competition, passing the burden on to food lovers will spell doom for any eatery. We can't say our dish is expensive today as rupee has fallen or petrol prices have risen. We either look at local produce or keep absorbing the price rise and perish," he said.

    This has spelt boom for local producers. Ayesha Grewal of The Altitude Store, which supplies ingredients to various outlets in the city, thinks it makes perfect business sense to procure goods from nearby areas. "Good quality duck, lamb, fish, asparagus to even European quiches and sausages are available within the country. As more people gravitate towards it, the quantity and quality too will improve," she feels.

    While stand-alone outlets are feeling the pinch, five-star outlets too are in the doldrums. A hotel manager said fluctuating prices have impacted the cost of importing liquor. Flying in foreign chefs and sourcing exotic ingredients has made food festivals expensive. They are looking at regional Indian cuisine and Indian spirits. Chef Ashish Joshi of Jaypee Siddharth says good quality quails, ducks, fish and other meats even in the cut of their choice, along with vegetarian ingredients like broccoli, capsicum and zucchini are being supplied by local producers. These ingredients are being actively used by chefs for their regional Indian food festivals as it allows diners to experiment with a new cuisine while keeping the costs under control.

    Saturday, August 24, 2013


    Lifting the lid off her passion


    LUDHIANA: For most of us, cooking is something we do because we have to. But Jyotsana Jain enjoys doing it and looks forward to opportunities that hone her culinary skills. Without her realizing, slowly yet surely, the smart chef carved her way out into this creative zone. What really makes her different from others is her ability of creating wonders from small things.

    'Cooking is not just about exotic spices and expensive ingredients. A good cook is the one who knows how to effectively use those little things in your kitchen to make something that you have never tasted before,' she says. The thought is supported by the recipe book she has in her hand. 'I have maintained this diary for a very long time and every time I create something new, I write it down in there,' she adds.

    Conceptualization is Jyotsana's forte and her dishes are a fine example of her creativity. 'From Chinese poha and poha kheer to Italian try-outs, I try to make ordinary healthy food into delicious cuisines,' she says. Unlike many who develop a taste towards this skill while helping out their mothers in the kitchen, Jyotsana inherited her passion for cooking from her father, who, she says, is still a pro at making cocktail drinks and jams. For someone who has such an expertise in cooking, it is easy to assume that it is a childhood passion. However, Jyotsana was inclined towards cooking only after marriage.

    Married to a senior police official, Anil Prabhat Jain, Jyotsana says her husband's transferable job acted as a catalyst to discover her passion. 'When we moved to Jammu, many friends and relatives would come to visit us. As I was unfamiliar with the markets, I used to find it difficult to shop. One day when a friend visited us, I tried my hands at a new recipe with the things available at home. I haven't looked back since then.' Appreciation and compliments, she says, have helped her reach this position.

    However, pride comes from the fact that her children never insist on eating out. 'I avoid ordering stuff from outside. I think the biggest challenge these days is to help your kids stick to healthy food and not get swayed by the junk available in the market', she says.

    Saturday, August 10, 2013


    Global Goa: The world on a plate


    PANAJI: Try to imagine Indian food without chilies. We produce, consume and export far more than any other country more than 30% of global supply but the fact is chilies were unknown in the subcontinent until they first introduced from South America just over four centuries ago. Entering via Goa along with potatoes, corn, guavas, chickoos, in a stream of dozens of other plants and fruits from the "New World" of the Americas, these imports created a revolutionary and permanent shift in Indian diets and palates.

    Another example: British colonialists annexed Upper Assam specifically in order to replaced its fabled old-growth forests with vast tea plantations. Up to that point, the only Indians familiar with the beverage were a few tribals in what is now Arunachal Pradesh. But it took just 100 years for chai to become our national drink, today Assam alone produces 11% of the world's tea crop.

    These and myriad other examples demonstrate that whatever its attendant complications, there can be no doubt globalization has always delivered a culinary bonanza. Besides ingredients, there's also been a profound dispersal of new techniques, that led to entirely new ways of thinking about food.

    In Bengal, the Portuguese first horrified locals by splitting milk to make cottage cheese (there called 'chhana'). But what was first considered an abomination immediately became the central ingredient of a whole range of sweets, including sandesh and rossogulla. Today, these are the very epitome of Bengali culinary identity. The process works in both directions equally effectively: the brilliant Mexican Nobel Prize winner, Octavio Paz has recounted how a nun from India wound up inventing one of Mexico's most iconic dishes, Mole Poblano.

    Even more than other places, Goan food has greatly benefited from our homeland's historic role as a melting pot of cultures. After all, we experienced one of the earliest crucibles of what is now touted as globalization.

    So it is impossible to imagine our most cherished dishes without the influence of the outside world, even while remembering the great Goan artist and gourmand, Francis Newton Souza's constant refrain - "our versions are always better than the originals!"

    Thus, our sorpotel is a much more soulful, fiery version of the Portuguese original. Our bebinca is a considerably more sophisticated confection than the South East Asian sweet it is based on. And no Brazilian has ever distilled anything nearly as fine as feni from the cashew, despite the plant being native to that country (the word 'caju' is itself an import from an Amazonian language).

    Despite attendant pressures and anxieties, we must note that Goa still remains one of India's most profound cultural crossroads. We now host tens of thousands of permanently resident neo-Goans from across the world, as well as unending numbers of Indian migrants. Many of our villages are every bit as multinational as Bangalore, with even small schools often including dozens of nationalities in their student bodies.

    This 21st century churn has just as much foodie excitement as centuries past. Goa might be a fraction of the size of its neighbours, our population laughably tiny when compared the cities sprawling within an hour or two's flying distance. But very few places feature such an extraordinary variety of food available in our markets and restaurants, globalized demand has delivered the world onto our plates.

    It is notable that much of the best "international food" available in Goa is made from local ingredients, right here in-state. Italians are making mozzarella, Frenchmen bake baguettes and croissants. The famous British butcher of Arpora turns out hundreds of kilos of what food guru Karen Anand (herself a Goan) describes as the "best bangers in India".

    Today, the village of Anjuna by itself produces yummy Mexican corn chips, silken Russian-style sour cream, and truly superb French Dijon mustard, among a huge range of other artisanal produce. You can expect these fine proucts to go nationwide in short order, you simply can't beat the quality anywhere in India.

    Goa's burgeoning food revolution has nothing to do with government efforts. In fact, mamy entrepreneurs and chefs who contribute efforts in this sector report harassment and extortion. And like everyone else in the state, they suffer from astronomical inflation, and an extraordinarily poor supply chain.

    But make no mistake, huge changes to what we eat in Goa are underway again, just as in the 16th and 17th centuries. The results may be unpredictable, but I am certain they will be delicious.

    Saturday, August 3, 2013


    Macaroons edge cupcakes out of the plate


    Dainty, crispy, delicate, elegant - these are just some of the adjectives used to describe macarons. And these fragile bits of wispy confectionary are edging out another faddy dessert that was responsible for floating a thousand home-bakers' careers - the cupcake.

    Yes, the with-it turn up their noses at cupcakes these days while taking tiny bites out of this biscuit-like product that belongs to the meringue family. A macaron (also spelt as 'macaroon' ) is a crisp meringue shell made essentially with three things: almond flour, egg white and icing sugar. Usually, two macaron shells are sandwiched together with a filling, which can range from the humble buttercream to exotic concoctions such as wasabi-and-white chocolate.

    "The meringue does lend itself to a lot of experimentation with the fillings. We are even creating some savoury macarons that will be more salty than sweet," says chef Tanmoy Savardekar of The Winking Macaron on Mosque Road. Savardekar used to be pastry chef at Olive Beach and Monkey Bar before he quit to start his own patisserie, and his macarons have created quite a buzz. Savardekar does macarons with several exciting fillings such as dark chocolate and star anise, peanut butter, vanilla caviar and salted caramel. The Winking Macaron also serves up other desserts but the macarons are the go-to option for most customers. The patisserie sells around 150 macarons every day.

    Chef Girish Nayak, the current pastry chef at Olive Beach, is quite sure that macarons are poised to become the latest sweet craze. "At Olive, we have been doing macarons for four to five years and the demand is definitely growing. It is a versatile confection that can be consumed by itself, with a variety of fillings, with plated desserts as a substitute for biscuits, or with ice-cream," says Nayak. He has experimented with savoury macarons as well, filling them with foie gras and creating an especially la-di-dah one with a vanilla and champagne filling.

    Venkatesh Raghu and Prasanth Shadakshari are so convinced of the macaron's imminent superstardom in the world of desserts that they have set up a factory to churn them out in large numbers in Basavangudi. Their venture, Amande Patisserie, is a year old and the two are set to open their first retail outlet at Hypercity in Brookefield, though they have been supplying macarons and other desserts to restaurants and bakeries. Why macarons? "My co-owner Prasanth is a Le Cordon Blue-trained chef and we were flatmates in Sydney. When we decided start our own venture in Bangalore, the macaron craze was just taking off in the West and we thought we would make it our primary product as well," says Venkatesh, who fell in love with macarons during his honeymoon in Paris. Amande also plans to introduce Bangalore to other delicate French confections such as profiteroles and millefeuilles, which are mainly available at fivestar cake shops today.