Humble tallo replaces tamso, modso, bangdo on dinner plate
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PONDA/PANAJI/MARGAO/MAPUSA: With mackerels selling at Rs 40 a piece in many fish markets across the state, Goans are digging deep into their pockets to relish some sea food to go with their daily meal and even then some are opting for varieties they would otherwise overlook.
"I now purchase good quality fish only once a week and we prefer buying cheaper varieties like sardines (tallo), which we would avoid earlier," Ponda resident Santosh Fadte told TOI.
Fadte is not the only one to be hit by the rise in fish prices. After 45 days of the ban on trawler fishing, skyrocketing prices have many fish-loving Goans only dreaming about savouring the choicest fish and restaurateurs are offering cheaper varieties to their customers.
A portion of fish may still cost Rs 50, but the quantity for that price is making the common man groan in despair, while varieties sold by weight-such as prawns at Rs 300 a kg and lady fish at Rs 500 per kg-are not cheering them up any and sending them looking for alternatives.
Ponda resident Hanumant Chopdekar said he cannot afford to purchase fish regularly and has switched to chicken. "A small fish of less than 500 gm costs about Rs 200, while we get chicken at Rs 180 a kg," he said.
Though prices of some fish varieties have remained unchanged, better fish qualities have gone beyond the reach of even the middle class families. Kingfish (visvon) which would cost Rs 400 a fortnight ago is now sold at Rs 550, giant sea perch (chonak) has gone up to Rs 500 as compared to Rs 400, mangrove red snapper (tamso) Rs 400 as against Rs 300.
Prices have risen as fish is now being sourced from outside the state. Panaji trader Suresh Agarwal said, "The price of kingfish and lemon fish have gone up in the past week. Due to the fishing ban in Kerala and Karwar, we now bank on Chennai, Kanyakumari and Vishakhapatnam for supplies."
Other fish varieties, such as Indian salmon, lady fish, silver belly (Velli) and prawns are sourced locally and their prices have remained largely constant.
Margao wholesale fish merchant Ibrahim Musa said fish prices fluctuate during the monsoon depending on the quantum of stock available on a given day. "During the monsoon, fish is brought from the east coast states like Andhra Pradesh and Orissa. While we face shortage of fish sometimes, on other days there is plenty of fish. These days we have sardines, mackerels and silver belly arriving in adequate quantities," he said.
Ponda fish vendor Chandrakant Gaude conceded that the shortage of fresh fish is becoming more acute with the fishing ban still on, though supply is maintained with fish from other states.
"The rates have doubled or even tripled. Those reluctant to purchase about 25-30 sardines for Rs 20 in the past are now forced to buy hardly ten sardines for Rs 50," Ponda restaurateur Teja Gaude said. She said the shortage of quality fish has affected her business and the number of customers is declining.
Small and up market restaurateurs, who banked on quality fish to lure diners are compelled to rely on lower quality fish to cut costs and a few restaurants in some towns have been forced to take better quality of fish off their menus.
Ponda restaurant owner Surendra Dhulapkar said he had stopped serving king fish, pomfret, mackerels and prawns and replaced it with sardines or even eggs. "We charge Rs 50 for a plate and using quality fish is not affordable to small hoteliers like us," Dhulapkar said.
This was echoed by Niraj Naik of Margao who said, "It's extremely difficult to offer delectable fish dishes to our customers at such exorbitant rates. When the thali (lunch plate) is priced at Rs 50, we cannot afford to buy sardines which are sold at Rs 10 a piece."
Some Pernem and Bardez restaurateurs have played it smart by keeping the rate of their rice plates flexible, depending on the rate of the fish they purchase on a particular day. The rice plates are sold between Rs 60 and Rs 120 in these two talukas.
South Goa Hotel and Restaurant Owners' Association ( SGHRAO) president C P Jaggi, who runs a fast food joint in Margao has taken off three fish items-fried fish and chips, fish fillet burger and fish fingers-from his menu.
"Short supply of fish apart, what is available in the market is fish stored in deep freezers for a very long period which affects the quality and taste of the fish. As Goans are real fish eaters, they can judge the quality of fish just by looking at it. So I decided to strike out the three fish items from my menu," Jaggi said.
Ponda resident Navnath Parkar said fish from Karwar or Maharashtra cannot compete with the taste of Goan sea food. He admitted that the scarcity of Goan fish at Ponda market, forced him to buy fish from neighbouring states.
Ponda market fish seller Varsha Fadte said she brings fish caught by using traditional fishing methods. "The price of the local fish remains very high, but the customer who values quality is willing to pay this price."
With inputs from Govind Kamat Maad in Margao, Keshav Naik in Mapusa and Surabhi Kamat in Panaji
